Well what can I say the front uprights have arrived and I am impressed. The bottom hole was to accommodate a Transit MK1 top ball joint but opted to drill the hole to take a 5/8 UNF studded rose joint as the top.
As I am not following a definitive set of drawings just a picture off the web I can't cut and shut a set of wishbones. Taking my experience from my Locost build and doing a bit of digging it came apparent the ratio between wheelbase and track is 1.618 to 1. So the first job was to widen the table and try and work where the front wheels would be and use the above calculation.
When I measured and re-measured, taking the steering into account it came apparent the chassis is a around 100mm short, its no problem as the back end is still to be finally welded.
The track will be 1340mm and wheelbase 2160mm
It looks daft but once I get the geometry correct I can construct a set of front wishbones. Again I will use the same method as the Ron Champion book.
Got a bit bores today so decided to weld in the 5/8 inserts to take the studded rose joints, gave the MIG a good service as my welding was still not up to scratch. Purchased the relevant bits to go with the uprights form McGill Motorsport even cheaper than Ebay.
Took the tube and drilled 4 holes and left 2mm of the threaded bar protruding for a good weld.
The welding is getting there now, a bit of user and equipment issues I think.
Still undecided on how to attach the wishbones to the chassis, either polyurethane bushes or rose joints.....
Yes finally spent my money on the front
uprights of my choice and the relevant bits apart for the steering rack. Can't
complain as I have not spent a penny since Christmas week which is good.
But as always a bit bored so acquired an old motorway sign and found this drawing of a seat on the internet.
The only issue was I could not upload the
dimensions for some reason so had to 'gestimate'. As the bottom front of
the seat couldn't be wider than 400mm I worked from there using the
ratio of x 3.3 from the drawing and the result is not too bad at all.
All I need is a friendly Aluminium welder to finish the seams off.
Will cut the 5 point harness holes after the seat has been welded.
I can honestly say it was hard work banging and sweating trying to bend the Aluminium sheet but it was well worth it, this is why I enjoy my hobby and if you have no interest in pottering in a garage, sorry you will never know the feeling and satisfaction of creating something mechanical ..............
Yes the welding is still not up to scratch but the grinding is getting less and less so slowly getting tidier. Got the cockpit done ( tack welded only ) and decided to sit in the car.
If you know me I'm not the tallest person in the world but a bit rotund and yes it was tight. After a night's sleep and giving the pillow a good talking to, I decided to chance and just widen the seating area by bending a kick in the top bar at shoulder height and yes it had made a difference.
Also got the front end finished and welded which will support the nosecone and some sort of a spoiler.
No choice now but to purchase a set of front uprights so I can complete the basic front end. Good news the financial adviser has give the green light as she knows it will keep me quiet for anther few months.
Not going to think about the rear end so threw a temporary brace in to hold the chassis in place.
Yes got bored with the grinding down of my fantastic welding from yesterday so decided to have a go at the rollover hoop. Got the pipe bender out and went for it with a reasonable result even if I do say so myself.
Starting to look like a car now. 🙂
Not following the CAD drawing to the actual size as some of the measurements do not make sense but it looks quite similar.
As mentioned yesterday I will need to spend some money now to move forward with the build with only a few evenings of welding and grinding to finish the current steel assembly.
Either I purchase a set of uprights and steeting rack or the rear differential assembly, either way its not going to be cheap.
Yes the front end has been tack welded and clamped down with borrowed steelwork from work, don't worry it will be returned in good time.
The welds are good but some are a bit messy so a lot of grinding and checking I have not missed anything.
Took the chassis off the table to have a good clean, the current build looks nothing on the floor at the moment and very light to pick up.
Time to spend some money again, will have to decide which uprights to purchase so I can start on the front wishbones.
Been looking at Autograss uprights from Berrisford which will suit the build weight and compatibility. mmmmmmmm
Some help or ideas would be appreciated........
As the floorpan is now in place and tack welded, turned over to check it fits the rudimentary jig and measurements on the table I can start the welding in earnest.
Grinding is not the most rewarding part of the build but being only armature self tough welder I can't take the chance that all the welds are good. On the other hand you know when a weld has taken hold so they will be left if they can.
The majority will have to be grinded down or the will protrude in the bodywork as the build progresses.
I am now happy to complete the welding on the floorpan and cap the end of the square tubing. I can then start to construct the front end of the build which will hold the double wishbone suspension, steering rack and pedal box in place. Lets see how similar the actual chassis will look like.
Yet to decide on which uprights I am going to use but scouring the internet for ideas between the grinding.
Yes i have been spending money again, it will probably turn into a white elephant as I have no idea on tube bending but will give it a go. Again bought off the internet from Germany £ 14 cheaper than any shop in the UK, makes no sense to me but there we are.
